Pets Are People Too In-Home Dog Grooming

Pet First Aid

2011-06-12T15:28:00.000-07:00

Have you ever considered what you would do in an pet emergency? Have you ever had a circumstance where your dog was injured, choking, or ill and you didn’t know what to do? A veterinarian is your pet’s best chance for survival or treatment, but how do you keep the dog alive or comfortable until you can get to the vet? We all love our pets, but is there ever a situation where it isn’t safe to interfere or assist?

As a dog groomer and pet owner, I highly recommend taking a Pet First Aid course. I have certified in Pet First Aid several times, and now hold a American Red Cross Pet First Aid certificate. I have rarely had to use the skills I learned, but I have been grateful for the training when I needed it. For example, two of my dogs have choked, and required immediate assistance or they would no longer be with us. A neighbour’s dog was hit by a car and was badly injured.

A Pet First Aid course can take anywhere from 4 to 12 hours, usually on a weekend. A Google search for your city will yield class providers and dates. Groomers can also usually attend certification classes at most of the major trade shows. It is a small amount of time to spend on something that could have a profound result for your family. Ask your pet caregivers, the sitters, walkers, trainers and groomers, if they have taken a Pet First Aid course.

I have also purchased a terrific resource for home and travel. It is an app for your phone or tablet that contains nearly all of the information you would need in a pet emergency and includes excellent videos on how to perform the techniques. For the minimal cost of $3.00 you can have your reference textbook on hand at all times. Find it at: http://jive.me/apps/petfirstaid/

Drying at Home

2011-06-07T19:36:00.000-07:00

I was just chatting with a client today about the gorgeous weather and I mentioned that I finally put away all of the winter coats on Sunday. I would normally feel embarrassed that I had left this little task until June but we have had such bizarre weather this spring that I truly feel I was justified in leaving the parkas in easy reach.

Now however, we are well into the start of summer. Many lucky souls have begun enjoying their pools and sharing the joy with their canine companions. Cottage season has begun, and the dogs are dock diving. Many more folks who would not normally consider bathing their dog in the cooler weather break out the hose and kiddie pool and give it a go in the backyard. Naturally, all of this results in a wet dog, otherwise known as the friendliest creature on the planet.

It may be that you are a free spirit and the prospect of a soaking wet dog doesn’t trouble you in the least. True, physics is a wonderful thing and a dog can shake a great deal of the water off of its fur but, depending on the type of coat your pet possesses, it can take many hours or even days for the dog to dry completely to the skin. This can be problematic for some breeds, leading to itchiness, hot spots, and bacterial or yeasty, smelly skin infections. It is important to note that matts that are allowed to wet and dry undisturbed also become even tighter and more difficult to remove.

You can speed the drying process by using an absorbent cloth or towel to remove as much water from the coat as possible. I like to use chamois cloths to soak up the water, squeezing them through the fur rather than rubbing. A particularly good type of chamois style cloth is called The Absorber. When the cloth is saturated, wring it out and keep sponging. You will be amazed at how much moisture is removed. I always follow up with a traditional towel dry because I think it is the part of grooming that all dogs enjoy the most. Many dogs love it if I lay the towel out flat and allow them to rub and roll themselves along it. For this reason I usually have two towels, one under the dog and one for towelling off. If you are reluctant to use your good linens on Rover, check out Value Village or the Salvation Army stores for used towels. They might be 70’s chique, but your dogs won’t care.

Air and towel drying is best suited for smooth or short coated dogs. All other coats will require a little mechanical aid to dry properly. A hand-held human hair dryer can be used on many smaller dogs, but you must be extremely careful with the heat settings. Most of those dryers are TOO HOT and I have seen the results of what one careless owner did to their poor dog with a hot hair dryer directed too long in one spot. Use one with a “Cool” button, and use an elastic to hold the button down if your hand gets tired. Keep one hand on the dog beside where you are drying, and do not stay too long in one spot. There can really be no excuse for burning your dog.

If you have a larger, hairier dog, it is possible that your pet will still be damp from its last swim by the time it goes for the next one. If you want to avoid the notorious “Wet Dog Smell” (which is caused by bacteria on the skin, among other things), I would recommend first rinsing your dog after it swims in a pond, lake, or chlorinated swimming pool. If your dog is crate trained, one excellent drying method is to use a large box fan in front of the crate to dry your dog with the volume of air. With a wire crate you could place several fans around and on top of the crate. Simple plastic fans are inexpensive, fairly quiet, and safe, but you should make certain that the cords are out of reach and that your dog is never left alone. Never, ever use a heater or heated dryer for this purpose. My favourite fan to use for this is actually a carpet dryer, used for when you have a flood.

If you are short on time and really need to speed up the drying process, consider using a high-velocity dryer. These dryers “blast” the water off the coat with the force of the air speed. They tend to be a bit noisy but have the advantage of drying the dog right down at the skin. You will need to be careful around the eyes, ears, genitals and backside of the dog. There are reasonably priced high velocity dryers for sale at most big box pet stores. You might also check your shop vacuum to see if it has a blower function. You can use that just as well, but make sure there is no debris in the hose or it will blow out onto your dog.

High velocity dryers can be used on any dog, but your dog may need a gentle introduction to the experience. Use patience and bribery, but be assured that it really isn’t a big deal. My dogs don’t seem worried about it at all.

Make a List of Your Emergency Veterinary Clinics

2011-03-06T10:52:00.000-08:00

Do you know where the closest emergency veterinary clinics are in your area? It is a good idea to have a list and keep it handy rather than having to come up with the information when you are panicked. Our regular veterinarian is available seven days a week and also has an emergency pager number, but that is exceptional. Animal emergencies always seem to occur at three o’clock in the morning. We also called all of our emergency vets when we lost our dog Cleo in case she had been injured and brought in by a Good Samaritan (actually, we called everyone but the emerg vets were in the top 10). Here is a list for my area:

Vet Emergency Clinic: NORTH CLINIC
280 Sheppard Ave. East
Toronto, ON M2N 3B1
Tel.: (416)226-3663
Fax: (416)226-3696

Vet Emergency Clinic: SOUTH CLINIC
920 Yonge St. Suite 117
Toronto, ON M4W 3C7
Tel.: (416) 920-2002
Fax: (416) 920-6185

Toronto Veterinary Emergency Hospital
21 Rolark Dr, Scarborough, ON M1R 3B1
Phone: 416-247-VETS (8387)
Fax: 416-287-3642
Toll Free: 1-888-593-7068

Kingston Road Animal Hospital - On Call Emergencies &
Toronto South Emergency Animal Hospital
1025 Kingston Road
Toronto, ON M4E 1T4
Tel: 416-690-0625
Phone: 647-393-VETS (8387)
Fax: 416-351-1272

Mississauga-Oakville Veterinary Emergency Hospital
2285 Bristol Circle, Oakville, Ontario
L6H 6P8
Tel: (905) 829-9444
Fax: (905) 829-9646

Veterinary Emergency Clinic of York Region
1210 Journeys End Circle
Newmarket, Ontario L3Y 8Z6
Phone: 905-953-5351
Fax: 905-953-4136

Vaughan-Richmond Hill Veterinary Emergency Clinic
10303 Yonge Street,
Richmond Hill, Ontario L4C 3B9
905-884-1 VEC
(905-884-1832)
Fax: 905-884-9979

Animal Emergency Clinic Of Durham Region
1910 Dundas St E, Whitby, ON L1N 2L6
905-576-3031

Retrieving a Lost Dog -- MINE!

2010-12-02T19:24:00.000-08:00

Well, November was a month of wild adventure. I dislike adventure intensely. I am a stolid, boring homebody, a blue jeans and yoga pants wearing stick-in-the-mud, and I eat a peanut butter and banana sandwich every single day without getting tired of them.

On the day of my brother’s wedding, when both my husband and I were members of the wedding party, one of our Schipperkes became startled, slipped her collar, and ran away from our friend. She was lost for thirteen days. We were able to get her back only through the enormously stubborn efforts of everyone involved, and the kindness of total strangers.I just wanted to write a quick note about what we did during our search and which strategies worked the best.

Searches

We searched, and searched. We went into backyards, under decks, behind sheds, in open garages and under cars. We braved swamps, parks and ravines. We went out at dusk, full night, noon, and at 4 a.m. We shone flashlights, rattled food dishes, crinkled potato chip bags, called, whistled, and squeaked toys. We walked our other two dogs all over the area until their feet were sore. We drove, in case we were scaring her on foot. We had friends and family, kind strangers, clients who went out with their dogs to attract her, people I haven’t talked to in years out driving around trying to find Cleo.

Try finding a small, black, lightning-fast dog in an area with huge properties, no fencing, hydro fields, ravines, increasing cold, and rain, rain, rain.

We put food out on the property that she ran away from, to the delight of a neighbourhood cat.

We tried hiring a search dog on the third day. This would have been a great idea except that we have three dogs and all of their stuff is stored together. We attempted it anyway. The dog tracked beautifully; sadly, it was one of our other dogs. We simply could not provide a good enough scent article for the search dog to use. I recommend the service. If it had worked it would have saved us a lot of grief. http://www.waggzandwhiskerz.com/Lost-Pet-Services.html

Inform the Internet and the World

I emailed my entire Contact List, everyone we knew on Facebook, placed ads on Kijiji, Craigslist, and any other classified website we could find. We notified the Schipperke club, and the Canadian Kennel Club. We posted on many lost pet sites including:

www.helpinglostpets.com (seems to be hard to get working for some people, but they try to help you)

www.petfinder.com

www.petharbour.com (for Toronto Animal Services updates)

http://torontolostandfoundpets.blogspot.com/

Many of the people I know are also dog people, and they told all the dog people they knew, and so on and so on. We also emailed all of the humane societies in southern Ontario, and all of the dog walkers in York Region. We telephoned all of the pet stores and veterinarians in the area. We bothered Animal Control repeatedly.

Sign, Sign, Everywhere a Sign

Our friends made perhaps one million flyers and wallpapered the area with them. Their energy was unreal. We received a call from the Milton Humane Society with an excellent idea. They recommended making signs from foam-core boards, using large black lettering and a simple message (LOST: SMALL BLACK DOG, PH#), and posting them at the major intersections around the area. It was these signs that got us our first phone calls of sightings. Cleo had already left the area we had been searching so intensely.

Traps

Cleo was running from everyone she saw, even at a distance. Very few people were close to her. She was staying near houses though. Once we started to get sightings, it was clear that while she was staying in the area, it was hard to predict where she would be. Since she wouldn’t respond to people, we had to resort to traps. We rented raccoon live traps and placed them on some properties where she had been seen a few times. As far as we can tell, she never went there again. We were stumped.

After a dry spell, we started to get more calls, this time from across the road. Cleo had entered a ravine and went up and down, covering a great deal of distance in a short time. She even entered yards that were fenced, finding tiny rabbit holes to move in and out. We moved the traps, but missed her again.

Finally we got several consistent calls that she was in a neighbourhood only a couple of streets away. One of my clients was even out searching for her and saw her, only to have Cleo run again. She seemed to be staying in a particular circle this time. The next day we had calls that Cleo was on a particular property within the circle that she had visited before. I saw her myself for the first time on that property, from a distance, but she ran. Dad and I set up the raccoon traps and a coyote trap that our friend had been able to borrow. We baited them with Pizza Nova Meat-lovers pizza.

The next morning she was there. My hysteria wasn’t pretty. Cleo was fine, foot pads a bit sore and a spot on her nose where she must have tried to get out of the cage. She didn’t even lose weight.

What We Learned

Make sure your dog can’t get out of her collar or harness.

Microchips are only helpful if your dog is caught.

Cleo is a gentle, friendly, affectionate, cuddly dog who likes regular meals and sleeping under the covers. We would never have predicted that she would be a runner and a hider. You can’t tell what your dog is thinking.

When you are searching for a lost dog, bring a cell phone and change of clothes, especially shoes and socks.

The Dollar Store sells great rain ponchos.

Mud smells funny in swamps.

Traps work. Dogs like pizza.

Hope your friends are as determined and resourceful as ours.

People are, with very few exceptions, very kind and amazing and willing to help.

Those very few exceptions can help to stiffen your resolve with outrage, just when exhaustion is kicking in.

Never give up, even though you feel like it’s impossible. Never give up.

Thank you to everyone who helped us or offered to help, whether it was through searching, advice, website help, encouragement, spreading the word, positive thinking and prayers. We are very, very grateful.

Random Advice For Aspiring Groomers

2010-10-18T14:21:00.000-07:00

Things You Need to Know About Being a Groomer, Totally Off the Top of My Head

Toenails will always end up in your bra (if you wear one) and in your hair. You may want to jump up and down and all around before you go home.
Never chew gum while grooming unless you want to floss at the same time.
Never wear your favourite anything to work. I once even had a puppy eat one of my earrings. I declined to wait for its return.

A subset of this would be to avoid light colours and wear a protective apron or smock. Some products like Qwik-Stop will stain fabrics, as will some animal bodily functions.

A subset of that would be to not spend too much money on your protective apron or smock. It will, guaranteed, get snagged or snipped or clippered. Pockets always catch on corners and rip. I don’t even know why they have them. The only thing that ever ends up in them is nasty hair and occasionally dog poop.

Have a set of undergarments strictly for work. Hair weaves into the fabric no matter how well they are washed, making them a bit prickly for other wear.
Regular coffee mugs are unwise. Use travel mugs with a lid unless you want to be horrified when you reach the bottom of your beverage.
If you have sensitive skin and eyes think twice about wearing make-up to work. It attracts all the fly-away hair to your face. It can actually drive you insane.
The humidity and blow-drying will ensure that you never have a good hair day for long at work.
If you can’t wear make-up and your hair doesn’t look great, wow clients with your smile!
Always put the lid back on everything immediately. Dogs find it highly amusing to knock over open containers.
Always buy the most expensive shears that you can afford to drop on the floor.

Why In-Home Mobile Dog Grooming?

2010-10-06T14:34:00.000-07:00

An in-home mobile dog grooming service is, in my opinion, ideally suited to two particular groups of people. That is not to say that others would not find the service convenient and beneficial, because I believe they certainly would. For example, I have busy clients who work from home and are happy to be able to conduct their day without interruption. Others simply like my grooming style. However, there are also those whose pets may, for whatever reason, find leaving the home difficult, inconvenient or stressful. Then there are those owners who themselves have the same challenges.

Many pets are not suited to the scheduling requirements and hustle and bustle of regular grooming salons. Often the most efficient schedule for the salon requires a longer stay for the dog. Some salons can arrange “Express” appointments, but some can not accommodate that request. For safety’s sake, most salons will cage the pets. I don’t disagree with these arrangements as they are often necessary for the business, but they are not ideal for some dogs. Very young or old, ill, sensitive and nervous pets may find a traditional salon stressful. Many are not crate-trained and dislike the cages. This can make some dogs noisy, which can in turn stress others. Some dogs are uncomfortable or fearful in the car, or have motion-sickness.

I have a number of customers who are perfect representatives of the second group. One customer is recovering from surgery. Another is very pregnant with twins. A customer who works shift work was just eating their “breakfast” as I arrived. One poor lady is hobbling around in a boot cast after breaking her ankle. A family’s little girl gets wickedly carsick every time she gets in the vehicle. A few of my older clients don’t drive or are becoming uncomfortable driving. Some clients have had an unfortunate negative experience at another salon and prefer to observe their dog’s haircut, or at least remain nearby.

These clients are able to have their dog groomed in the comfort of their own home by a groomer who does housecalls. They can still wear their “comfy” clothes. They don’t have to call a taxi, twice. They don’t have to get up at 9 a.m. to bring the dog to the groomer after getting home at 6 a.m. They don’t have to make two car trips with a carsick child. They can be confident that their dog is safe.

In-home mobile dog grooming is perfect for these customers. Is this service right for you?

Getting Wet

2010-10-03T17:00:00.000-07:00

You can’t be too dainty and be a successful dog groomer. As I mentioned before, grooming comes with a high Yuck Factor. There are bad smells and bodily functions, oozing and stickiness. It is hairy, hot, and humid. A groomer generally doesn’t have a good hair day for long. Most especially, you can’t mind getting wet. I have had days where I end up wet clean through, even down to my socks.

There is a special kind of dog that either has a peculiar sense of humour or a keen sense of fair play. This type is determined that the groomer should be as wet as the dog or the bath is incomplete. They will shake frequently, continuously or, in the case of the smarter ones, strategically. They can not be deterred by a gentle hand on the shoulder or by lifting up one front leg. The dog might be as large as a Newfoundland or as tiny as a Yorkshire Terrier but the size is irrelevant. The big ones can drench a large area with a good shake and the smaller ones learn to slip the grooming restraint and leap into your arms or climb your body when they are at their wettest.

However, I will say that some of my worst and wettest days have been my own fault. I have lost count of the number of times I have dropped the shower nozzle and had it whip around like a wild firehose. Sump-pump style bathing systems are even worse and can make an impressive mess in just a few seconds. Why is it that we always try to catch the hose rather than turn off the water?

In-home grooming has offered a new and exciting way to soak myself. I have been in a great number of bathrooms, most of which are far nicer than my whole house. Many people have renovated their bathrooms to include spa-quality walk-in showers. These huge enclosures have rainfall showers, wall mounted jets, and handheld showers. All of them. In one. I have stood and stared at a half-dozen knobs and dials. Finally, convinced that I have figured out the controls, I make a bold choice, grab the handheld nozzle, turn on the water, and twist a knob.

Generally what happens next is that I am standing directly under the lovely rainfall shower as it comes on. I fumble with the controls, panicked, dodging, dripping, as the dog retreats to the corner of the shower (which can be several feet away in some of these bathrooms) and laughs its head off.

I’ve learned to bring a lot of towels and wear quick-dry clothing, and that's why the ponytail was invented anyway.

Artwork copyrighted by Christopher Cowley, Windchill Studios.

Bichon Frise pet styles

2010-09-29T19:03:00.000-07:00

Because curly coats are so much fun to scissor, I have ended up with quite a few Bichon Frise clients over the years. Most pet styles are based on show grooming but are modified to suit the lifestyle of the dog owners. Bichon Frise show clips have changed quite a bit since I began my grooming career. The style has gone from a huge bell type head with long ears to a round head with invisible, incorporated ears, a "bubble" of hair over the eyes, and a neck crest. The current Bichon clip accentuates the expression of the breed by highlighting the dark eyes and nose. It is also a lot of hair for the owners to maintain. As a result, most clients request the Bichon look but without the hair. That can be a challenge.

Hairstyling preferences are also a question of taste. Some owners simply prefer long ears, or want short faces to avoid drippy beards. Some groomers are very rigid about breed styling, and are determined to groom only to the breed profile. I have always felt that my job is to do my best to provide the owners with the clip they want, as long the coat is in the condition for me to do so, and provided it does the dog no harm. The real trick is in interpreting exactly what the owner wants, as their definition of "short" or "long" and mine may not jive. I like to suggest to people that if they see a photograph of a style they like, they should show it to me just as you would your human hairdresser. A photograph at least gives us a visual mutual starting point. This has always worked well for me, with the exception of one time where the lady brought me a photograph of a West Highland White Terrier and wanted her Bichon's head to look just like it. I'm still not sure what my goal there was supposed to be, but it reminded me of the time I brought a photo of Meg Ryan to the hairdresser and the rib-cracking sigh he gave me.

Cleo Shedding Update

2010-09-22T18:50:00.000-07:00

In case you thought I was exaggerating about Cleo's unholy shedding, here we are with Round Two.

In-Home Grooming: Where do you bath the dog?

2010-09-21T18:05:00.000-07:00

“Where do you bath the dog?”

This is usually the first question people ask when they inquire about in-home grooming. The answer is pretty simple: wherever you want! So far I have used bathtubs, jacuzzi tubs, walk-in showers, laundry tubs, and kitchen sinks. As long as the dog can fit comfortably and safely in the space, I will use it and I come prepared.

I bring my own bathmat with me to avoid scratching the tub and to keep the dog from slipping.
I use a hair-trap over the drain.
I have knee-pads for kneeling.
I have a hose that attaches to most laundry faucets.
In other areas that have no spray hose, I use my Secret Weapon.
I bring my own towels and shampoo.
I dress appropriately and don’t mind getting wet.
I wipe down and clean up the area when I’m done.

Your dog gets a professional, quality bath in the comfort of their own home and I do my best to leave the room as I found it.

Questions Answered

2010-09-19T17:44:00.000-07:00

"Hello Cousin, Regina my Cockerpoo (more poo than cocker) gets matted easily, I bought clippers to be able to shave her and ,as you suggested above, start new. She is VERY curly and I can't seem to get the clippers to glide through her hair. What am I doing wrong?"

Ha! What a great question! I have the lovely long-winded answer I promised you.

Many people purchase commercial pet trimmers with the laudable intention of grooming their pets at home. Nearly as many end up discarding those trimmers in frustration and returning to their regular groomer with a hangdog expression and a patchy looking pet. The problem is that there can be more than one problem. The equipment, coat type, and coat preparation all combine to create an impossible situation for the pet owner.

Pet trimmers of the type you can purchase in Walmart are not usually powerful enough to handle a matted or dirty coat. The motor can often heat up and the blades may drag. Trimmers may also have an integrated blade that does not detach. It can be replaced, but not sharpened. To have a longer clip you will have to use a plastic snap-on comb. These combs will not pass through any tangles or matts and will contribute to the frustration. These trimmers can be great once the coat is trimmed off and you can use them to maintain the style.

More expensive, professional grade clippers are more durable and powerful. They also have the option of using a wide variety of detachable blades of different lengths. The blades can be sharpened when they are dull. You can often find a used or refurbished set of professional clippers for a reasonable price.

If you have a set of professional clippers and are experiencing difficulties it might be because of the blades. I have found that new blades come with a residue on them that renders them dull straight out of the package. To remove the residue you will need to immerse the blade in a special blade wash, and sometimes the stuff is so hard to get off you will have to repeat this several times. Because of the friction from the high speed at which they move blades also need to be oiled before each use. Only a small amount of oil is required or it will get all over the dog. A blade that has been used for some time will heat up, hot enough to burn. The blade wash can also be used to cool the blade down.

The type of coat you are trying to clip can be a challenge. Fine coats or undercoat can get trapped between the cutting edge and the main part of the blade. If even one hair is between the two surfaces the blade will jam. To add to the fun, some blades just tend to be prone to jamming and some do not. I have one magical 7F that works on any coat, and three more that each respond badly to a different type of coat. That is another reason why the pet trimmers with non-detachable blades can be a problem. It isn’t easy to clear a jam in the blade. With a detachable blade that is jammed, remove the blade from the clipper. Slide the cutting edge to one side without removing it entirely. Blow on the blade and use your fingers or a toothbrush over the comb and cutting edge to remove any trapped hair. Slide the cutting edge entirely to the other side and repeat. Replace the blade on the clipper and give it another go.

Finally, you mentioned that Regina’s coat is very curly and that she needs a do-over haircut. With a matted coat you need to clip under the matt line. You can not clip over the top. This means you will probably end up with a very short haircut. My go-to blade for a shave-down is a 7F. Most clipper kits come with a 10 which is quite short but fine for the purposes of a do-over. You will not be able to use any snap-on combs if there is matting. I like to wash the dogs before I clip them because I find it is easier to clip a clean coat. If you can use a forced air dryer to blow dry the coat that can help to lift the matts away from the surface of the skin. A clean, dry, straightened coat will be easier to clip.

You may need to make a starting point if the coat is very matted. With extreme care!!! slide a pair of scissors between the shoulder blades and, using tiny snips, create a small line following the spine. Only close your scissors if you are sure you have hair and not skin. Once you have that starting point you can use your clippers. Matted coats don’t clip off cleanly and you have to move slowly. I find it works best if you work the clipper in a “U” shape. Don’t force the clipper through or you might nick the dog, and be mindful of the blade temperature.

I hope this was helpful to you. Let me know if you have any more questions and I’d be happy to help!

The Importance of Grooming Your Dog

2010-09-18T15:50:00.000-07:00

Wow. Who knows when this poor little Lhasa Apso was last groomed? Lhasas are not a shedding breed, so if their coats are not brushed and combed out properly, mats can form very easily. When mats get wet, through rain, snow or bathing, they tighten until they form a felt-like strength. Moisture can cause bacteria and fungus to grow causing hot spots or even worse infections. The dog's skin is stretched tightly underneath the knots, and her blood recedes. It is then impossible to brush out the dog without torturing her and damaging her skin. The only prudent course is to "strip" the coat off, and allow her (and the owners) to start over.

What a difference! The poor little Lhasa has been "stripped" on a #15 blade. That is just about the closest blade that we can use, but it was necessary in order to clip below the mat line. As you can see, the coat came off all in one piece, which indicates just how tightly the coat has woven together. Hopefully her skin, as the blood rushes back to the surface, will not suffer any irritation. Let's also hope that her owners will do a better job of maintaining her coat this time! Non-shedding breeds should be groomed every four to eight weeks depending on the owner's lifestyle and commitment.

The Return of Supergroomer

2010-09-17T18:34:00.000-07:00

The Supergroomer believes that I can lift and move nearly everything I encounter, dogs and furniture especially. She is responsible for my getting stuck on the stairs with a full sized mattress, although I have to say that I could have made it all the way up if the mattress had had a decent handle in a reasonable location.

Since Supergroomer scorns assistance, I have picked up many big dogs without help. I have found that with good form, most dogs can be lifted onto the table or into the tub. I actually tend to lift almost all dogs this way, regardless of their size. Standing perpendicular to the dog, facing its side, I will bend my knees and squat. I reach one arm under the dog’s chest, between the front legs, and place my hand on the shoulder. The other arm reaches under the dog’s abdomen, between the hind legs. I hug the dog to me closely to prevent wiggling and stand up, keeping the dog’s spine level. It is important to bend the knees and not deadlift the dog. It is also vital to avoid twisting and turning. For the dog, a level and close to the body hold will keep them calm and safe.

Beware a panicky dog who still attempts to wiggle and flip around while you are holding them. The torque can cause you to twist your spine. A “helper” dog can also give a little hop, jarring your spine or giving you an accidental headbutt. A very well-behaved dog will often offer to put its front feet up on the table or tub edge. If the dog cooperates and doesn’t change her mind because she thinks it’s funny, you can lift up her back end. Remember to bend your knees.

When I lift or carry a particularly big dog in this way I usually hear a chorus of, “No wonder you have a bad back!” It is true, I do suffer from sciatica and pinched nerves in my shoulder and neck. I would like to point out that the neck and shoulder issues actually come from scissoring and brushing. The sciatica is entirely my son’s fault. I did not develop my back problems until I was a pregnant groomer.

The horrible hormones of pregnancy cause a woman’s joints and ligaments to loosen up and, I suspect, mutate. (I did not enjoy pregnancy, not one little bit.) Loose joints were combined with the lifting, bending, stretching and twisting that normally accompanies grooming, but now occurring with a belly in the way, and the ever increasing weight of my son bouncing happily on my sciatic nerve. One of the most miserable experiences of my pregnancy was not with a large dog, but sitting hunched over my belly trying to groom two tiny little Yorkshire Terriers that I couldn’t quite reach. I ended up with quite a painful back problem that did not abate once my son was born. I tried chiropractic care and it did help somewhat, but I decided to reduce the number of large dogs I was grooming.

On a day when I was running the mobile grooming business and my son was about two years old, I stopped by to have lunch with him at my mother’s house. I bent to pick him up, a little sideways I guess, the way you do when you are going to swing the child up on to your hip, and WHAM! Something snapped in my low back. I actually managed to carefully put my son back down, and then I hit the ground in considerable pain.

Because Supergroomer believes in keeping a stiff upper lip, rub dirt on it, keep the blood flowing, and all that stupid stuff, I finished grooming my scheduled dogs for the day. I’m not sure how, because the mobile vehicle had quite a big step up to get in the back. I went home, took many pills and went to bed. The next day I could barely move. I couldn’t groom for about a week. I could barely do anything for about a week. I couldn’t get in and out of the truck. Going to the bathroom required a serious commitment because it hurt so much to sit down and get up. My husband offered to get barbeque tongs so that I could pull up my pants. I got stuck in our big claw-foot bathtub because I couldn’t make the big step out.

Grooming is very hard on the body and mind. Supergroomer makes it harder. I really have learned from my experiences though I still lift big dogs and my son, who has grown much larger. I listen to my body, and try to keep it strong and fit with yoga, running, and strength training. And I buy a lot of Advil.

Where can I groom a dog at home?

2010-09-16T09:46:00.000-07:00

As much as I am enjoying my Mardel table and as easy as it is to carry, do you know what is even nicer? Not carrying a table. I’m still trying to master not bringing absolutely everything that I’ve ever owned with me “just in case”, so having one less thing to carry is terrific. Fortunately what I have been telling dog owners for years is true; one of the best places to groom a small dog is the top of the clothes washer or dryer. Chest freezer height is also very comfortable. I am about 5’ 7” so if you are a little bitty thing or Andre the Giant you may disagree with me. The laundry room usually provides a power source that is equal to any equipment I use.

I have also used a few workbenches, bathroom counters, and kitchen counters and they were all quite convenient. Obviously the goal is to find a raised surface that is a comfortable height. I bring a bathmat with me to provide a non-slip, easy to clean surface, but the whole area that you are working in should be easy to clean as well. You don’t want a lot of doodads that can get knocked over by the dog or the blow dryer. Make sure there is adequate light so that you aren’t squinting in the dark.

Brushing, combing, and trimming the nails on any sized dog is much easier if they are raised up on a non-slip surface. Grooming on the floor or in your lap provides too many avenues of escape. It also can be difficult to see what you are doing and awkward to reach all the areas you need to reach. Those with larger dogs could try a picnic table. Make sure you do not leave your dog unattended while he is on the raised surface. You don’t want them jumping off and possibly causing an injury.

A Comb that Combs

2010-09-14T17:00:00.000-07:00

I worked with a young groomer who was struggling to improve her finishing work. She had trouble with her blades snagging when she was using clipper combs or getting a smooth finish when scissoring curly coats, and her straight coats often looked choppy. “Comb up!” I would tell her when she asked me for help, and I would go over with my comb and show her. My comb would catch in the coat, indicating that she needed to comb the coat out more thoroughly before she could proceed.

“But I did,” she insisted. I would go back over the coat again with my comb and show her how to properly comb out and comb up the coat. I was confused because she was a good groomer, not sloppy at all, but she didn’t seem to be able to comb a dog properly. It didn’t make any sense.

One day when I went over to help her, I forgot to grab my comb. “Here, use mine,” she said. I picked hers up from the table and tried to run it through the coat. To my surprise, it sort of slid over the top of the hair instead. No matter what I tried, the comb didn’t seem to, I don’t know, comb! I looked at it closely and it resembled my own in many ways. It was metal, sturdy, with a combination of fine and coarse spaced teeth. Very normal. It just didn’t bloody work!

Since then I have encountered mysterious combs like this a few more times from different manufacturers. There is nothing that outwardly distinguishes them from other combs, but there must be something about the finish. The poor victim who is trying to use the dud comb has no idea that life could be so much easier.

Many people believe that coat care is a one step process and consists of one tool: The Brush. This is incorrect (and often they are using the wrong brush anyway). The brush and the comb are used together, and it is the comb that tells you if you have done a good job. If you can not get a comb through the coat, all the way to the skin, brush and comb again. I like to use a combination comb with fine and widely spaced teeth because I find it to be efficient. The wide teeth are used to find and pick apart matting, and also to fluff the coat. As my combs age the outside teeth on either end bend because of the way I use them to break up a tangle. The fine side of the comb is for finishing, making sure that all the tiny matts are out.

A combination comb can also be used effectively on a shedding dog, and with some coats are more useful than any brush. The coarse side cards through the coat, pulling out the bulk of the undercoat. The fine side can find any thick patches that remain and remove the finer fluff. I offer as Exhibit A, Cleo and the product of three minutes with my combination comb. (Cleo is blowing her coat right now and we will repeat this process every couple of days until she looks like a smooth coated dog. No kidding. Every year, twice a year, she does this and every time I am shocked. My other two don’t do this.)

I highly recommend the Chris Christensen Buttercomb #000. It seems expensive for a comb, but it is very effective and lasts for years. Compare it to your current comb and you will probably switch. Any comb that is comfortable in your hand and effectively passes through the coat will do though, whether it costs $2 or $40. Make sure you can hold it comfortably or you won’t use it and will have wasted your money anyway. I have another comb that looks identical to the Buttercomb but its back is squared off. It makes it very uncomfortable to grasp and gives my hand a cramp. Some cheap plastic handled combs will also break apart leaving you with a handle and an impossible-to-hold-on-to remainder.

Remember when you are combing to stretch the skin of the dog slightly and to support in your hand any matts that you may be trying to break apart. You do not want to yank and pull on the coat of your dog and have them suffer a miserable experience. Brush, and then comb, then repeat. Use the tools together and use them often. You will find it much easier to maintain your dog’s coat.

Mardel Tables: A Review

2010-09-13T16:46:00.000-07:00

When I started in-home dog grooming, I was pretty well supplied. I had a lot of equipment from when I had the salon and mobile grooming businesses. However, my portable grooming table was quite large, heavy, and awkward to carry. Very few of my dogs are of a size that requires that table. I wanted to reduce weight of what I was toting, and the number of trips it took to bring my equipment in and out of the houses.

After some internet research (I think am the Queen of Google), I decided on a lightweight ringside table from Mardel Tables. I sent an email inquiry regarding the cost of shipping to Canada, and ended up in an extended conversation with Mary Ann. Basically, she told me that what I thought I wanted wasn’t what I needed. For safety reasons based on the varying dogs that would be on the table, she recommended the Mini table instead, which is only slightly heavier and has a carry handle.

“Great,” I replied, “I’ll take it, and could you also throw in a folding mini grooming arm?”

Once again my bright idea turned out to be a dim one. The mini grooming arm was not appropriate for what I would be doing. Mary Ann offered as a safer alternative a narrow grooming arm that they would cut down to a shorter length for me. My final order was an 18” x 30” x 33”H Mini table with a Narrow grooming arm cut to 36”. A grooming loop was included with the order.

I am very pleased with the table. It is very easy to carry because of the lighter weight and handle. It is very sturdy when set up and a comfortable height. I love, love that the table top is blue. I can’t imagine why manufacturers make black table tops. The eye strain is atrocious. The blue finish provides excellent contrast for black coats without causing a glare with white coats. The shortened grooming arm is a very convenient length. I use bungee cords to strap it to the table when it is folded flat.

The customer service I received from Mary Ann of Mardel Tables was excellent. She was very helpful and honest in her recommendations. My emails were answered promptly and courteously. The table was shipped well wrapped and protected. Even better, the table was shipped from the United States using the postal service and I received it in Canada two days later. My experience was very positive and I highly recommend Mardel Tables.

Supergroomer

2010-09-12T09:17:00.000-07:00

Let me be clear. The Supergroomer is not a classic heroic character. She is usually an antihero, and occasionally a villain. A delusion of heroism that crops up in my mind from time to time, the Supergroomer encourages me to attempt actions that are clearly unwise or beyond my capabilities. She is responsible for most of my physical injuries and definitely for my mental burnout. It is the Supergroomer who says “Yes” when the answer should be “NO WAY”. She can be both the angel and devil on my shoulder, whispering mad ideas mixed with genius so that I cannot tell the difference.

It was the Supergroomer who agreed to groom an enormous Newfoundland on a day when she knew I had no assistant coming in to the shop.

“He is so well behaved,” she said. “You can do it by yourself.”

The dog did have exquisite manners and, like the gentleman he was, heaved himself up and put his front paws on the edge of the raised bathtub. “See! You only have to lift half of him,” the Supergroomer said. With a mighty grunt, like the hammer throwers at the Olympics or that notorious tennis player, I managed to heft the back end of the giant dog up and into the tub. There were lights, purple and red lights, that exploded into my vision along with some serious dizziness and a little disorientation. But he was up there.

I phoned my husband. “What percentage of your body weight are you supposed to be able to lift without killing yourself?” I asked.

“Why? What did you do now?” he said.

“Nothing, nothing. I’m just curious.”

Once my breath returned, I bathed the Newf and used the high velocity dryer to blow out most of the moisture in his coat. Then I tried to get him out of the tub. “Down is easier than up,” said Supergroomer. “Gravity, you know.”

The Newfoundland knew about gravity too. He was big enough that he generated his own field. No matter what I tried, I could not get him to put his front legs on the edge of the tub. Because he was raised up, and incredibly heavy, I couldn’t lift him over the edge myself. Then he had enough. He lay down and I was toast. Practically in tears, I phoned my Dad. “Could you please come over and help me lift a dog?”

My folks lived close by, so the Newf hung out in the tub for a short time while we waited for Dad to arrive. “Holy crap!” he cried. “I thought you needed help lifting a dog up! How did you get that thing up there by yourself?”

The two of us wrestled the dog out of the tub, and I saw those fireworks again. Amazingly, my heart did not explode, nor did I get a hernia. But not from lack of trying.

Artwork is trademarked by Chris Cowley, Windchill Studios

Shampoo

2010-09-11T16:01:00.000-07:00

Hello, my name is Stephanie and I am a Shampoo-aholic.

At one time in the salon I must have had twenty-five gallon sized bottles of shampoo and at least as many smaller bottles and samples. Fifteen years ago when I was an apprentice, my teacher used one simple, cheap, no-name line of shampoos. There was a blue one, a green one, a yellow one and an orange one for fleas. They were okay, but they didn’t smell very nice, the dogs usually needed several baths and my hands would crack and peel after a time. When I bought the salon and began purchasing my own supplies, I started to do some research. To my surprise, I found that the variety and quality of pet shampoo now rivals human shampoo. A bewildering variety, in fact.

What makes them different? Why would one variety be superior to another? Which shampoo is appropriate for what dog? Those are excellent questions and a little beyond me to answer in detail. I highly recommend reading BBird’s GroomBlog. She has made quite a study of the chemistry of shampoo and has also written a book on the subject.

I require several different shampoos for different reasons. I keep a basic, all around shampoo, suitable for the majority of dogs that I groom. In addition, I have a gentle whitening, brightening shampoo, used for white and light coloured dogs. I need a medicated shampoo for dogs who have irritations, hot spots, allergies, and greasy coats. I usually have a soap-free oatmeal shampoo for dogs with dry, itchy skin or those who can’t tolerate the medicated shampoo. I have a conditioning shampoo with silicone for dogs with matted coats or those who shed. Finally, I keep a simple, soap-free, colour-free, perfume-free, tearless, hypoallergenic shampoo. This is useful for extra sensitive dogs and owners. I carry the basic shampoo in a medium bottle and the others in small bottles to reduce the weight I carry as an in-home groomer.

I select my shampoos based on many factors. They should be free of animal cruelty. I want them to be effective when diluted to the manufacturer’s recommendations. There is no point in buying a shampoo that is supposed to dilute 50:1 if it is little better than plain water at that dilution. When I say effective, I mean that I want them to get the average dog clean within two baths, one if used with a quality bathing system. Soap-free is a grand ideal but a useless one if the dogs are still dirty. If they are effective, they should not be too drying. I need a shampoo that rinses easily and quickly so that no residue remains to irritate the dog. They should remove odour without being too heavily perfumed if they are a scented shampoo. Scent is pleasant but subjective and many people have serious sensitivities these days. Finally, the coat should respond well to the shampoo and not seem too limp or too tacky when it is dried.

It seems a lot to consider, but I have sampled dozens of shampoos and you would be surprised at the differences between them. Some clean better in hard water than soft water and vice versa. Some seem perfect in every way, but inexplicably make too many of the dogs itchy no matter how well they are rinsed, or give the groomer dry, cracked hands. I once found a really nice shampoo but did not realize it had almond oil as an ingredient. It made the client’s nut sensitive son break out in a rash each time he petted the dog.

Currently I highly recommend the Show Seasons line, the Kelco line, and Best Shot products. They are reasonably priced and have a shampoo solution for any situation. However, with my addiction to trying new shampoos I may have more to recommend in a while.

How to Choose a Dog Groomer

2010-09-10T17:40:00.000-07:00

Some people put more thought into things than others. This has been highlighted for me recently with a wedding coming up in our family. My wedding was very simple and small, and was still much bigger than I wanted. My dress was bought at the mall, invitations consisted of, “Hey, would you like to come to our wedding?”, our officiant was the first name on the list that happened to be free on the date we wanted, and said list was provided by the town hall where we had our very brief ceremony. We had a nice dinner afterwards at a restaurant with about twenty family and friends and then went home to collapse. First Chris helped me remove the approximately three hundred bobby pins impaling my skull. Our honeymoon was a day trip to Sudbury where we picked up a Schipperke puppy. We named him Vegas, which is where I wanted to get married.

In contrast, my beautiful sister-in-law-to-be has spent the last year fretting colour schemes, fabrics, wedding dresses, bridesmaid dresses, tuxedos, invitations, guest lists, venues, table linens, photographers, party buses, decorations, centerpieces, menus, dessert tables, wedding (not exactly) cakes, bonbonieres, hairdressers, makeup artists, DJs, flowers, wedding registries, accommodations and rings. So you see, people have different approaches to life.

This is apparently also true in choosing a dog groomer. People approach choosing a new groomer in many different ways. The most popular seems to be Price. The first question a groomer is usually asked on the phone is, “How much will it cost?” I can understand in this economy why the price of the groom might merit serious consideration. However, a groomer, shop, or corporation may set their prices using different criteria since they have different expenses or overhead. The cost of the groom may or may not include items like nail trimming, medicated shampoos, boarding fees (for all day stays), dematting, and taxes.

Perhaps the most unreliable ways to choose a groomer are what I like to call the three A’s: Alphabetical, Advertising, and Available. Some people just call the first name they see in the phone book. Others choose the prettiest ad or fanciest website. And every groomer gets desperate, last minute calls wanting to know if any appointment are available today, four o’clock on a Saturday.

Many clients also choose a groomer based on the shop’s proximity or the distance required to Travel. This can be very important for people with busy schedules, seniors, or those without cars. In the area I service some taxis will transport pets, but I have received a few panicked phone calls telling me that the taxi driver refused to allow the dog in the vehicle and the client needed to wait for another car to be dispatched. I also have few clients whose dogs and/or children get car-sick. The less time spent in the car, the better. Of course, this is where mobile groomers and in-home groomers are the most convenient choice.

Some people have special requirements for their pets that are important and for them, the Services available will help them make their choice. Certain breeds look their best when their coat is hand-stripped or plucked rather than clipped with clippers. Some people would prefer a show clip and require a breed specialist. Some would like colour applied to their pet. Others need to have their dog groomed and returned as quickly as possible; they need an express appointment. Not all grooming shops and services have these amenities available.

Experience and Qualifications would seem to be a good way to select a groomer. However, I must honestly tell you that I have met new groomers who are naturally talented and are educated in all the modern techniques and I have met older groomers who haven’t updated their skills in twenty-five years and have no interest in doing so. Currently in Canada there is no official licensing or educational requirement to become a groomer. Please, I repeat, there is no such thing as a licensed dog groomer in Canada. The qualifications of a groomer can be difficult to assess. Many of the grooming schools have been closed. There is no formal apprenticeship system. There are trade shows with seminars and workshops, voluntary certification programs available and occasional grooming contests. They can be used to assess how qualified a groomer may be, and also as to the Quality of their work. While different clients have differing standards, with one looking for a show style and another a clean and neat shave-down, both want to be pleased with the final clip.

We come finally to my personal preference when it comes to choosing a groomer. I consider Referrals to be one of the best ways to find any new service provider. You can ask your veterinarian, dog trainer, the gang at the dog park, or someone on the street whose dog is groomed particularly well. You can also check websites like www.Yelp.ca for online reviews. You should feel Comfortable and Confident in the groomer you have chosen. All groomers should be insured. Your groomer should be friendly and professional and you will feel like your requests and concerns have been heard. Hopefully using some of these criteria you will find the perfect groomer for your dog.

Feet First

2010-09-09T17:14:00.000-07:00

Over my many years of grooming I have learned new techniques and tricks, many of which contradict the original dogma. For example, rather than completely brush out, demat, and pre-clip (or rough-in) a dog before the bath as I was taught, I am far more likely to bath it first. It is far easier on myself and my equipment to work on a clean dog. Blow drying or force drying the coat can loosen up or even remove the mats, making half the work and feeling much more comfortable for the dog.

When it is time to finish the dog however, my routine rarely changes. I always begin with the back feet. The back feet are furthest from the dog’s teeth, and that is important for a new groomer to remember. Certain breeds can be extremely fussy about having their feet touched. Starting at the back feet gives you a better view of the dog’s body language and having that extra distance between your hand and the dog’s head gives you a better chance to dodge. Dogs are even fussier for their front feet than their back feet, so if a dog reacts poorly to having its rear feet handled you can be sure that it will be a tussle for the front.

Unfortunately for fussy dogs, grooming of the feet is extremely important and should not be neglected. Dogs with furry feet must have the hair cleared from between the pads on the underside of the foot. Hairy feet collect and trap debris from the street and yard, and reduce the area available for perspiration. Since dogs perspire through the pads of the feet, hair that accumulates becomes damp and can form painful, pebble-like mats between the pads. Between the toes on the top of the foot is a common area for mats to form also, and usually that area is too sensitive for them to be combed out. With any area that is matted, moisture can’t escape and is an excellent breeding ground for bacteria and fungus. Clearing the hair can be done (carefully!) with scissors but it is far safer, more thorough and faster to do it with a clipper and #10 blade. Most dogs become accustomed to this very quickly.

“My dog is wrecking my hardwood floors!” is a common complaint heard by groomers.

Not only do overgrown toenails damage floors, they are terribly uncomfortable for the dog. Long nails can lead to splayed feet and aggravate back, hip, and arthritis conditions. In some cases it can affect the dog’s balance. Nails and dewclaws will actually curl around and grow into the flesh of the dog, leading to sores and infection. They can also catch and break off at the root.
Very few dogs will wear their nails down adequately through exercise. They should be trimmed monthly at the minimum, with some dogs requiring more frequent attention. The longer nails are allowed to grow, the more difficult it becomes to correct the problem. The vein in the nail will grow as the nail grows.

The best solution is to have your dog’s nails trimmed frequently so that stimulation forces the vein to recede. Each session should allow the nails to be trimmed shorter until they are once again the correct length. Nail trimming can be combined with a dremel or grinding tool which may encourage the vein to recede faster. If your dog vehemently objects to having the nails trimmed you may need veterinary assistance.

My Pets

2010-09-08T16:42:00.000-07:00

Although I have known groomers who didn’t have any dogs, most of us have multiple pets. I am no exception. Currently our animal family consists of three Schipperkes, a Bengal cat, and a domestic black cat.

“Skipper-what?”

“Schipperkes (skipper-keyes, or shkey-per-keyes).”

Schipperkes are a small, agile, active breed from Belgium, bred to guard the barges and chase vermin. In North America they are black, but in Europe I believe that cream and chocolate are also acceptable. They are double-coated and shed seasonally (one of mine ends up practically bald), hardy and hilarious. Intelligent, expressive, affectionate, and a little bit stubborn, they are little devil dogs that have won our hearts. Our first was sort of an unintentional acquisition but, like Lay’s Potato chips, we found we couldn’t stop with one. Alice is nearly thirteen, our male Vegas is nine, and Cleo is seven.

Growing up without a cat, naturally owning one became one of my fondest desires. Once I left home, I determined that I would have a pure-bred cat of my own. I explored several different breeds, admiring Burmese, Bengals and Maine Coon cats, and finally settling on a Ragdoll. We went to a breeder of gorgeous Ragdolls out in Mississauga. She kindly showed us around her immaculate modern home and introduced us to her small cattery, gamely ignoring the fact that Chris had erupted into monstrous sneezes the moment we passed through the door. He shuffled and snuffled after us, one of her tissue boxes tucked under his arm, until we had to acknowledge that another ten minutes might be the end of him.

“Sometimes people are okay in a house with just one,” the breeder suggested, hopefully.

Chris shook his head at me desperately, and off we went.

I abandoned the thought of a long-haired cat and dragged Chris off to the outskirts of Kingston to visit a breeder of Bengals and Pixie-Bobs. This house was much, much older, and the although the house was clean, the cattery was much larger. Chris was dubious and filled his pockets with Kleenex. We entered the cattery where a litter of fluffy Pixie-Bob kittens had free reign. They all promptly pounced on Chris, climbing his frame like a jungle gym. He was crawling with kittens, and not one sniffle. Amazed, after shaking free the last Pixie-Bob, we introduced him to a few Bengals. No reaction whatsoever. We came home with a gorgeous six month old male, Diego. He is now 9 years old.

A few years ago I had found a stray cat on the street and brought her home. We didn’t find her owners, so we kept her. Jessie was part of our family for a couple of years but she unfortunately had an immune disease and we weren’t able to save her. We all missed her terribly, including Diego who seemed at a loss. After a time we discussed adding another cat, and went to an adoption event at PetsMart “just to look”. We came home with Licorice, a gorgeous black young domestic cat. She and Diego skipped right over the “getting to know you” introduction routine and she made herself right at home.

So our house is full of fun, although Connor is a fan of symmetry and is campaigning for a third cat to make the set. He’s campaigning for a baby sister too, but that isn’t going to happen either.

Playing Favourites

2010-09-07T17:10:00.000-07:00

I have been asked many times which are my favourite dogs to groom. Most of the time the question refers to my breed preference. I have in my career had a chance to groom many purebred and mixed breed dogs, and almost every coat type. I have scissored, plucked, stripped, shaved, clippered, sculpted, thinned, de-bulked, etc. etc. I still haven’t encountered any corded or hairless breeds, but I have a friend who has offered the chance to try her Chinese Crested so I may get there yet.

The question seems simple but has a complex, multi-part answer, dependent on the day and my mood. For example, you would think that all small, smooth-coated breeds would be low effort and easy money, but the thought of a Manchester Terrier or Miniature Pinscher fills me with dread while Pugs and Miniature Smooth Dachshunds are a joy. No offense to any particular breed by the way. My preferences are based purely on my experiences, and yours may have differed completely.

When you factor in that there is not necessarily any correlation between my favourite breeds to groom and my favourite dogs to groom, it becomes very difficult for me to give any kind of straight answer to the question. Over the years I have fallen in love, frequently, deeply and forever. Love, illogical and unconditional, has had nothing to do with my enjoyment of the haircut the dog received but often made those dogs shine in my memory.

The best answer that I can give you is that I like to scissor, and I can fiddle quite happily with a Poodle (especially a Standard) for a considerable time. Curly coated breeds like Poodles, Bichons and their mixes offer a dramatic before and after, and a great deal of satisfaction. It helps that they usually have lovely temperaments, and I have groomed many over the years that I have adored.

However, I remember a Miniature Dachshund named Squirt, and a Yellow Labrador Retriever named Mackenzie who both smiled like you wouldn’t believe, corners of the mouth curling right up in a fabulous grin. I remember two Shih Tzus named Molly, one who rode in a bike basket, topknot streaming in the breeze, the other who refused to pass by the shop door without coming in to say hello. I remember another Shih Tzu named Katie who would rest her chin on my insignificant chest while I put in her pink satin bow. Rookie, a Bouvier mix, the apple of her daddy’s eye. Toby, the enormous Yorkie with the slow kisses. Duchess, Di Di and Dharma. Pixie and Oreo. Susie and Gen Gen. Tramp and Seamus. Nikki and Holly. Kali. Tabitha. Macey. So many more.

I have so many favourites. I fall in love. My heart breaks.

Artwork trademarked by Christopher Cowley, Windchill Studios

Talk to the Animals

2010-09-06T13:49:00.000-07:00

“Are you getting any answers?” the client chuckled as she passed by the laundry room where I was grooming her dog.

I tend to maintain a continuous monologue as I groom, delivering a play-by-play, coaxing, reasoning, cajoling, and chatting away. (But very rarely baby talk. That gives me the creeps. Even when talking to babies.) Often I ask for the dog’s opinion, or ask if she saw where I laid down my comb. You would be surprised at how many dogs totally know where the comb is, but lie and look the other way. This has been my habit for many years, ever since I discovered that it makes for a calmer, more companionable grooming experience. My theory is that normal, friendly tone of voice is relaxing and reassuring for the dogs. My other theory is that it confuses them.

Confusion as the goal was behind my other habit, which I have had to curb somewhat since beginning the in-home grooming. Singing. I am not an especially good singer. I’m not the worst you’ve ever heard either, and you can generally recognize the tune I am warbling at least. I have a high, squeaky, Snow White type voice that went out of fashion in the 1930’s and is totally unsuited to any music written since. I do love music however, and love to sing along. I can’t remember the words particularly well, so one or two bars tend to repeat endlessly, but I have fun. And nothing perplexes a dog more than belting out a few stanzas of Hot Blooded while you are trimming around their eyes. Confusion distracts from their nervousness, boredom, or plain orneriness and allows me to get the job done.

And since it’s nearly impossible to groom and dance...

Artwork trademarked by Christopher Cowley, Windchill Studios

Audiences

2010-09-05T08:00:00.000-07:00

One of the biggest differences between in-home and traditional salon grooming is the potential for your work to have an audience. Most traditional salons gently refuse the owner who wishes to stay during the groom. This is for many reasons, including distraction, litigation and time constraints. Corporate groomers are well aware of the challenges of an audience during the grooming process. They don’t call those salons “fishbowls” for nothing. (Please folks, do not let your kids bang on the glass. And don’t you do it either. Seriously, it’s not appropriate anywhere.) Often the behaviour of a pet is influenced by the presence of the owner, much like kids at kindergarten who kick up a holy fuss while Mom is there and happily run and eat sand in the sandbox the moment her foot crosses the threshold to leave. A refusal to allow the owner to stay can seem suspiciously secretive, but it is not intended to be so. When I owned my salon I often told people that they were welcome to watch me groom any dog but their own.

Working in homes is quite different. While I do ask for a little space if the dog becomes distracted, one of key advantages to having the groomer come to the home is the opportunity to observe. Often owners have told me how much difficulty they have bathing or brushing or even medicating their pets, and express disbelief when I tell them how well-behaved I find Fluffy. They finally get to see how the magic happens. Although so far most people have insisted they don’t need to stay, not one has been able to resist peeking at least once.

In households with children I have suddenly found myself both workman and entertainment. Fascinated by the process, the kids unleash their questions, hardly pausing for the answers and interjecting their own tales and commentary. After listening to my explanation of the bath I was giving her dog, one adorable poppet kept popping her head around the corner to tell me about her My Little Pony who also suffered terribly with seasonal allergies and not only required a medicated bath with a measuring cup, but also a mysterious purple lotion. After watching me dry the dog with my high-velocity dryer, she opted to allow Pony to air dry.

Since often it is children who most desperately wanted to explore the grooming salon, in-home grooming has proven to be ideal. Magic is proven instead to be practise, patience, confidence and elbow grease. And I have had someone to keep me company and prevent me from singing off-key disco to the dog. But more about that another time.

Artwork trademarked by Christopher Cowley, Windchill Studios

De-shedding

2010-09-04T05:26:00.000-07:00

To me, de-shedding is a fancy technical term for what we used to call brushing. They have several tools and conditioning solutions out now that are supposed to reduce the amount of hair in your home by a significant amount should you follow their program, and in a way this is completely accurate. That is because their program recommends regular bathing and brushing of the dog every two to six weeks. Many dogs who are considered to be high shedding are also otherwise low maintenance and groomers are lucky to see them every three to four months. The tools that are used certainly have their place and card the coat, pulling out undercoat. However they can be very abrasive to the skin, and extreme care must be used not to irritate the dog.

My tricks for de-shedding depend on the coat of the dog, but are fairly simple. For a smooth, short coat, such as a Boxer, Dalmation, or Boston Terrier, I prefer to use another of my secret weapons:

I have tried any number of rubber curry combs over the years. For some reason, the Kong Zoom Groom beats them all, hands down. It is easy to hold, easy to clean, removes a ton of hair (so much that you get a little worried the dog will end up bald - trust me, it won't), and is pretty cheap.

The Kong Zoom Groom also works well on the shorter double coats, such as the German Shepherd or Labrador Retriever. With heavier coats of that type or longer, like Malamutes, Shelties and Collies, my preference is to slather them in a conditioner that has a bit of silicone in it, let them sit for a bit and then, before rinsing out the conditioner, use a grooming rake (a wide tooth comb that exactly resembles a little rake) to comb out as much of the undercoat as possible. Hopefully you will have groomed your dog more than once a year and this will not be too difficult. If it should be seriously packed in there, you might need professional (grooming) help.

Once you have removed as much of the coat as possible, cleaned out your tub, and rinsed the dog, you will need to get them dry. Many folks at home just let their dogs air dry but, to remove as much hair as you can, I recommend using a High-Velocity dryer. You can find one at any professional grooming supply company, and also at most dog shows. In a pinch, take a look at your Shop-vac. It probably has a blower feature. If it isn't too stinky, you can use that blower as a dryer. Stay away from the eyes, ears, genitals and backside please. An HV dryer will get down to the skin, and loosen all of the remaining undercoat. Once the dog is totally dry, follow up with the rake again, a slicker brush, and possibly a finer comb.

This process will absolutely make a mess. Fortunately, you already have your Shop-vac handy. These suggestions are meant for pet dogs only, so don't do this to your show dog or your handler will kill me.

For those who are concerned about their dog's reaction to the dryer and who are convinced that all dogs live in fear, I leave you with this video of my dogs.

Secret Weapon!

2010-09-03T05:14:00.000-07:00

I have discovered over my many years of grooming that the third most valuable skill you can possess is resourcefulness. The first is patience, that's obvious. You won't get too far in grooming if you can't cope with wiggly puppies, senior dogs with canine dementia, and Golden Retrievers who treat grooming tables like surfboards. The second skill is a strong stomach, and I call it a skill because I believe that you can develop a grooming specific tolerance for disgusting things and still be rather delicate in the rest of your life. And there are many disgusting things about grooming. Career seekers beware.

Resourcefulness. That is what turns a butter knife into a lever, screwdriver, scraper and, if you wash it well, a butter knife. Currently, as an in-home groomer, my secret weapon is this:

A pressure sprayer, easily located and very inexpensive. Mine was found at The Dollar Store, although it was an extravagance and cost $2. Why am I using a pressure sprayer? One of the most time consuming parts of bathing a dog is simply in getting them wet, right down to the skin. Most professional grooming shampoos are also meant to be used diluted, and seem to work better when warm. Using the sprayer, you can mix up the shampoo and apply it directly to the dry dog saving you time, effort and shampoo. Diluted shampoos are easier to rinse, which also saves time and is better for the dog's skin.

Grooming in homes I am also presented with different bathing areas and many do not have hoses to rinse the dogs. The sprayer can be used to rinse also, either using it as a sprayer or by taking the lid off and doing the old fashioned pour method. Not too shabby for $2.

Welcome to my adventure!

2010-09-02T16:26:00.000-07:00

I began grooming as an apprentice in 1995. In the fifteen years since, I have owned a traditional salon, run a successful mobile grooming vehicle, and worked for other salons both large and small in the Markham and Whitby areas. I am now beginning a new adventure: in-home (or house-call) dog grooming!

This migratory form of grooming has differences from my previous grooming ventures. I will be bringing my tools and equipment with me into the client's home and grooming the dog there, often directly in the owner's presence. The grooming will be straight through, much faster for the dog but requiring more of its attention. The owner is free to observe or carry on with their chores about the house. The space in the home available for grooming will vary quite a bit. Every day and every home will be different.

It's going to be great!